In this post, I’ll go into detail on how to authenticate one of Hermès’ most iconic bags—the Birkin. Even the most well-made replicas can’t escape these Fake techniques.
I came across this video about a news story on fake Hermes that I thought was so interesting/funny that and I thought everyone here might enjoy it as well:
In the video, Dacob discusses a case that is apparently being investigated of an employee of Hermes in Russia who seems to have been in charge of the distribution of goods from the warehouse to the boutiques.
Allegedly, it seems this person, over the course of 8 or so years, swapped out some auth Birkins and Kellys for replicas before sending them out to boutiques to be sold to unsuspecting consumers. This person would then sell the Replica Knockoff ones themselves on the side.
There are not a lot of details that I could find aside from it being investigated so we don’t really know if it’s true, or what the extent of it is. But if it is true, can you imagine???
What I found the most interesting about this story was the fact that, if this really happened, nobody at the boutiques noticed that the bags were replicas, none of the customers noticed…
So to those who are worried about people noticing their bags are not auth, this might put your mind to rest. (As someone who currently likes to buy a mix of auths and reps depending on the item, I can 100% confirm this.)
It also shows just how much context matters in these situations.
The SAs would have never suspected the bags they thought were coming from Hermes to their boutique would be anything other than Replica Knockoff so what do they see? An Replica Knockoff bag.
The customers who are there buying these bags also would never suspect the bag is anything other than an Replica Knockoff bag so what do they see? An Replica Knockoff bag.
People see what they want to see.
That’s exactly why it’s crucial to know the detailed characteristics of Hermès bags and be able to easily identify the real from the fake yourself. This can really help you avoid buying Hermes dupes.
💡For more guides on Spotting Fakes, check out
- How to Spot Fake Louis Vuitton Bag Like a Pro (Ultimate Guide)
- Spot Fake YSL Bag Like a Pro: What You Need to Know
how to spot a fake Birkin bag?
1. Shape
Color 2. Size 3. Leather 4. Hardware 5. Stitching |
6. Blind Stamp 7. Logo Stamp 8. Lining 9. Dust Bag Box 10. Tiny Details You Shouldn’t Overlook |
1. Shape Color
The Birkin bag has a trapezoid shape, it’s pretty rigid, so it keeps its shape even when there’s nothing in it.
The real Hermes Birkin has a graceful curve, whereas the Birkin dupe often looks bigger and has sharper shapes.
- A legit Birkin isn’t going to sag or puff out. It stands up straight and looks even.
- The handles are always standing up; they don’t flop down.
And those four clous (little feet) at the bottom are hammered in, so the bag can stand up on its own, keeping its shape all nice and even, no matter how long you use it.
Colors are important too.
Hermès has a ton of color options for the Birkin bag, from classic neutrals like black and gold to bright colors like orange and red.
Even though the same color looks different on various types of leather or even between batches of the same leather, if the overall color just seems wrong, there’s a good chance it’s a fake Birkin bag.
For example, with black Birkin bags, those made from Togo and Clemence leather have a soft matte finish, while those in Chevre and Epsom leather are a rich, deep jet black with a natural sheen.
Fake Birkin bags usually have low-quality dyes, so the colors can come off looking dull or wrong. The black might look more like dark gray or navy blue.
Also, the color can fade or start to wear off after a while.
💡Wanna know more about Hermes Colors? Quick Hermes Birkin Colors Guide
Replica Knockoff Black Birkin Bag-Togo | Replica Knockoff Black Birkin Bag-Epsom | Fake Black Birkin Bag |
2. Size
Birkins come in four sizes: 25, 30, 35, and 40 centimeters across the bottom. Except for those special custom orders, every standard Birkin should match these sizes.
⚠️Note: Birkin bags also come in sizes 20 and 45, but they’re pretty rare.
One easy tip to spot if it’s real or not is by measuring it.
⚠️Note: Hermes bags are handmade, so sometimes the bag can be a bit bigger or smaller. That doesn’t mean the bag is fake.
Although the sizes vary, the proportions stay the same.
That’s why when a Birkin is just 5cm (about 2 inches) bigger or smaller, it can feel misleading. They actually look quite a bit bigger or smaller than the next size.
Fake Birkins often don’t get the proportions right, especially around the base.
Does the handle seem too long? Or is the bottom of the bag too wide?
Right now, the 30 and 35 sizes are the ones most likely to be copied because they are the most popular sizes.
3. Leather
For Birkin, they only use the best leather—genuine, high-quality, and long-lasting, whether it’s calf or something more exotic. On the other hand, Birkin knockoffs are often made from synthetic leather.
You might see a Birkin that’s got some wear like scratches or stains, but you’ll never find one with a flaw in the leather itself from the start.
- Natural leather has an uneven look because the patterns and textures vary.
- You can actually feel the grain of the genuine leather when you touch it.
- Also, the veining is different in every Hermes bag. Each one has its own unique texture, and that’s totally normal.
You will see some bags have veins and creases, while others of the same style won’t have any. This is just how real leather is, and it’s part of the beauty of Hermes bags.
Fake leather looks the same all over because it’s manufactured to copy the look of real leather, so it doesn’t have any of the natural variations you’d see in the real bag.
💡Here’s a pro tip: If the leather on the bottom and the handles, or the front and back, look way different, it’s likely a mass-produced fake.
Another key thing to do is give it a sniff. Real leather has a kind of earthy or oaky smell, and even if you pick up a used Hermès bag, it should still have that leathery scent.
There’s just something special about the smell and feel of a real Hermès Birkin bag.
💡 For More Details About Each Hermes Leather Quick Hermes Leathers Guide
4. Hardware
Hermes picks high-quality metals for their bags, not the cheaper stuff knock-offs use.
Depending on the bag, the hardware could be plated in silvery-white palladium or gold (On limited edition bags, the hardware can be in rose gold, brushed gold, and ruthenium), and you’ll usually see “Hermès Paris” stamped on it.
For bags made with exotic skins, they can also have precious metals and even be studded with diamonds.
In poorly made Birkin replicas, you might see the hardware colors don’t match up. Like, the feet have a silver color but the rest of the hardware is golden.
Another big giveaway is how heavy the hardware feels. If the bag seems too light, that’s a red flag.
- No matter the type of metal, all the bits and pieces like the feet, lock, and key should all match and feel smooth.
Lock Key
Each Birkin bag comes with its own lock and key and they should match the finish of your bag’s hardware.
Since the year 2000, Hermès has been stamping both the lock and the keys with the “Hermès” name and giving them matching numbers.
The numbers on the top show the date:
- the first and third digits tell you the month
- the second and fourth digits are for the year
For example, 0232 means March 2022.
⚠️Note: The year on the lock doesn’t always match the year the bag was made.
So, a bag from 2021 may not have a lock that was made in 2021. Usually, the lock is produced either before or at the same time as the bag.
- The numbers on the bottom are the model, and the numbers on the lock and key should match up exactly.
⚠️Note: Not all gold locks have a little box above the model number.
Hermès has used several different imprints over the years, so relying on this detail for Fake can be difficult.
What you really wanna check is how good the lock and key feel and look (quality).
- The font/engraving on the lock should always be clean and crisp.
- The lock should be easy to use, and smooth when you toggle it.
Pay attention to the stripes (on the left, right, and middle areas) of the lock. They should be consistent. On fakes, the stripes often have varying depths.
💡Here’s a handy tip: Real Hermès locks and keys usually feel heavier than fake ones.
The keys are tucked inside a leather clochette that loops through the bag’s handle. Hermès attaches the key directly to a leather band instead of using a key ring.
Fake Birkins often have keys that don’t fit perfectly in the clochette.
Pay attention to the numbers on the key—the spacing between the first two digits will be closer.
Fake keys often feel cheaper, almost like plastic, and the finishing isn’t as fine as on the real ones.
Additionally, on a genuine Hermès bag, the clochette should be crafted from a single piece of leather folded in half and stitched together, not from two separate pieces.
Zipper
Hermès makes its own zippers, so you’ll never find a YKK or any other brand mark on them.
The metal used on the zipper should have a matte finish from being polished. On a fake, it might look shiny.
- The bottom stop on the zipper is a metal letter “H”, you can see it has a matte finish.
- The zipper teeth are polished and beveled, and they are evenly aligned.
- Plus, each zipper will either have a ‘Hermès’ stamped on it in capital letters or a square on older models.
- The pull tab of the zipper should perfectly match the rest of the bag’s material and sit horizontally, not hang down.
Zipping a Hermès bag should feel smooth. If the zipper gets stuck, feels stiff, or just doesn’t slide easily, that’s a big sign you’re dealing with a fake Hermès bag.
Four Clou
Don’t forget to flip the bag over and check out the base.
On the bottom of the Birkin bag, there should always be four feet that are hammered in. Birkin replicas often just screw in the feet because it’s quicker and easier. So, if the feet feel like you could unscrew them yourself, that’s a red flag.
Do they look shorter, wider, or just cheaper than what you’d see on Replica Knockoff bags?
Again, the feet should also match the rest of the bag’s hardware—they should be made of the same metal and have the same color.
5. Stitching
Each Birkin is sewn by a skilled artisan, so the stitches are super neat, but they don’t look like they were done by a machine. You’ll notice that the stitches on the Birkin are slightly angled.
Although most stitches are single, you’ll sometimes see double stitches, especially on the clochette and where the handles attach at the back of the bag.
Hermès craftsmen use linen fiber lightly coated in beeswax and employ a complex two-needle sewing technique (saddle stitch) that’s tough to pick up and replicate.
Since it’s all stitched by hand, there might be tiny variations. And different craftsmen have their own sewing styles, so no two bags are exactly the same.
Hermès craftsmen finish up their stitching inside the bag under the flap, so it’s normal if that area does not look perfect.
But it’s never going to look sloppy. Compare it with a low to mid-tier fake Birkin bag, and you’ll see what I mean right away.
Also, low-tier fake Birkin bags are machine-made, so you’ll see small, straight seams on them.
6. Blind Stamp
⚠️Note: Hermès doesn’t give out authenticity cards or use serial numbers.
Since 1945, Hermès has been using a single capital letter for their Blind Stamp, and sometimes that letter is inside a shape.
Hermès Blind Stamps have two types. One is the Date Stamp (Date Codes) and the other is the Craftsman Stamp. The two stamps are usually found close to each other.
Craftsman Stamp: This shows you the craftsman (or group of craftsmen) who made it.
- It could be a mix of shapes, letters, numbers, and symbols, and sometimes there are several stamps, depending on who worked on it.
Allegedly, when you send a bag back for repairs, Hermès can actually track down the specific craftsmen who made it, and they’re the ones who fix it up.
Date Stamp: This tells you when the bag was made.
- A single letter by itself means the bag was made between 1945 and 1970.
- If you see the letter inside a circle, that tells you the bag was made from 1971 to 1996.
- Then, if the letter’s inside a square, it’s from between 1997 and 2014.
Historically, these stamps were on the exterior sangles or under the bag tab.
Starting in 2015, Hermès started using Blind Stamps with no shapes around them but added some extra letters and numbers.
The first part of the code is always a letter, which shows the year the bag was made. The rest of the code represents the Craftsman Stamps. You will usually find them embossed on the inside panel.
For an Replica Knockoff Birkin, the Blind Stamp will have all these letters and numbers correct, matching up perfectly. But a fake might miss out on some of this key info.
⚠️Over the years, there have been a few anomalies with Hermès date stamps. For example:
- In 2011, the date stamp “O in Square” and a “J” Craftsman Stamp were both inside a rectangle.
- For 2014, the bags were supposed to be stamped with an “R” inside a square. However, you’ll find quite a few bags made in 2014 that have this “R” stamp without the square.
7. Logo Stamp
Under the front flap of a Birkin, you can find the stamp: HERMES / PARIS / MADE IN FRANCE.
These label stamps are gently pressed into the leather, either in gold, silver or just as an imprint without color; they should match the bag’s hardware color.
- The “H” is shorter at the top and longer at the bottom.
- In “E”, the middle bar is the shortest, and the bottom bar is the longest.
- The top part of “R” and “P” is shaped like a flattened “D”.
- The top of “M” is flat.
- Make sure there’s that little accent on the second ‘e’ in Hermès, like ‘è’.
- “S” is smaller at the top and larger at the bottom.
- In “FRANCE,” the letters “R” and “A” are connected.
- The three “R”s are aligned in a straight line.
Double-check that the stamp is smack in the middle and sits just right from the top, close to the stitching. On a fake Birkin, the stamp could have the wrong color, font, or size.
The stamp may have extra markings, such as symbols indicating exotic leather or a special order.
- For exotic leathers and special orders, there are specific stamp symbols used.
Exotic Leathers
Caret (^) Crocodile Porosus |
Double Dot (··) Crocodile Niloticus |
Square (☐) Alligator Mississippiensis |
Dash (-) Varanus Niloticus Lizard |
Equal Sign (=) Varanus Salvator Lizard |
|
Special Orders
HSS (aka Horseshoe) Custom Made |
Shooting Star Craftsman’s Personal Product |
“S” Exceptional Sales Items or Employee Purchases |
8. Lining
Every part of a Hermes Birkin bag, including the lining and interior, is crafted with serious attention to detail.
Most recently produced Hermès Birkin and Kelly bags are lined with chevre or goatskin. It’s a slightly textured, really tough leather with a bit of shine.
Some Birkin bags might have different materials inside, but they’re always high quality, usually similar to the leather on the outside. If you find a Birkin that’s unlined or self-lined, it’s definitely a fake.
9. Dust Bag Box
Dust Bag
Right now, most dust bags are beige and off-white with a herringbone pattern and have the Calèche logo from the brand stamped inside a double circle.
Check for thick fabric that feels sturdy, and make sure the drawstrings and seams are sewn well. The ink on the dust bag should be rich and solid.
Real Hermes Dust Bag | Fake Hermes Dust Bag |
- The newer Replica Knockoff dust bags have an outer circle that’s thinner than the inner circle.
- There are 12 spokes on the rear wheel and 10 on the front, with the spokes clearly defined.
- The four corners of the “H” are tightly aligned with the circle.
- The circle connecting the “H” to the carriage is interrupted by two parallel lines.
- The carriage has a backrest.
Hermes Box
Hermès boxes have this orange color that’s pretty unique. The fake ones just can’t make it right—either the color’s too dark or too light. If you put them side by side, you can totally see the difference.
- Since 2016, the packaging boxes have shown a fluorescent reaction.
- Make sure to check out the brand markings and the surface texture of the box.
⚠️Note: The dust bag and box don’t prove a bag’s authenticity because some scammers put fake bags into real boxes to trick buyers. Use them just as reference points when checking authenticity.
10. Tiny Details You Shouldn’t Overlook
If you want to become a pro at authenticating Birkins, there are some really detailed aspects that we shouldn’t overlook.
Engraving on the Plaques
The plaques (hardware on the sangles) are engraved with “HERMÈS-PARIS”. The engraving should have a clear, crisp font that is elegantly spaced.
Hermès has used various font styles on their plaques, depending on the year the bag was made and the style of the bag. Fonts on the newer bags tend to be thinner.
After the “PARIS”, sometimes, there’s a tiny box that has such small writing you’d need a magnifying glass to see it.
The font and spacing of the engraving might vary, but fake bags can’t match the precise lettering of Replica Knockoff Hermès bags.
⚠️Note: Only gold-plated bags have this little box. You won’t find this box on bags with palladium plating.
Pearling and Stamp on the Sangles
Pearling are the little round pins you see on the plaques. Authenticators often pay close attention to how these are applied because it’s a key detail for telling if a Birkin is genuine.
On an Replica Knockoff Birkin, the pearling is tightly pressed into the leather surface, and VERY close to the stitching. The surface of the pearling shows marks from manual hammering.
On a fake Birkin, the pin aren’t as tightly aligned with the stitching.
Also, if you look closely at the blind stamp on the sangles, the fake has it stamped too deeply, like it was done by a machine. Compared to the real stamp, you can hardly see it. Plus, it’s larger than a real stamp.
Pontet
On a genuine Birkin, the hardware on the inside of the Pontet is well-polished. The metal is hard, and every edge is beveled and polished to make the corners sharp and clean.
If you run your finger inside where the straps slide and it feels rough or sharp, chances are it’s a Birkin dupe. Hermès wouldn’t let anything out that could snag or damage the leather.
Glazing
The glazing is another clue to spot a fake Hermes versus a real one.
The glazing on Replica Knockoff Hermes bags is usually thin, with a slight brushed texture, and through the coating, you can even see the cut marks of the leather.
On fakes, the coating tends to be thick.
Low tier replica glazing | Authentic(left) vs High tier replica glazing |
I’m really familiar with replica bags because I’ve bought a lot of them—enough to even have my own go-to replica sellers.
From my years of experience, I want to remind everyone not to assume that Replica Knockoff products are ALWAYS FLAWLESS or to underestimate today’s replica makers.
Even though these methods help spot Hermes Birkin fakes right now, the replica factories are getting better fast.
Things are always changing, so it’s tougher and tougher to spot the difference between what’s real and what’s fake.
I’ve bought replica Birkins before and compared them with the Replica Knockoff bag. I’ve got to say, the high-end replicas are super hard to spot.
So for us consumers, if we want to avoid getting duped, we really need to sharpen our Fake skills.
Read Also:
How to Spot A Fake Hermes Constance Bag
Why Are Hermes Bags So Expensive?
I am zero surprised about it. Two years ago, one of our friends got LV shoes for her husband from LV boutique in Moscow. Fast forward few months, something happened and she took them to the store in the US for repair. Shoes were reps. And there was nothing she could do, with a receipt and everything.
Thanks for sharing this story! Was a fascinating read!
Super detailed. I need to take some time to soak it all in. Thanks!
Doesn’t surprise me, I saw the Dacob YouTube video. SAs, especially abroad, don’t know, care (?) about the bags, just commission. Tried a Mini rectangular classic on travels in Italy and the stitching was wonky and a few loose threads!!!
Couldn’t believe my eyes, had to point it out or she would have sold it to me, no qualms!!!
Crazy, no quality control, desperate after the pandemic and lack of US tourism. Now the $ to the € is almost 1:1 they’re really pushing the sales! Be careful guys,you probably quality check better than the staff, seriously!!! x
Right? Makes me even more skeptical to buy from a boutique now. I wouldn’t wanna pay auth prices for potential replicas.
I don’t even want to pay auth prices for auth so that makes it easy for me to avoid this problem
Actually, same 🤣
This is true! I know a friend who got burned. I’m from Moscow and this is such a wide known scandal lol!